Mamas of Africa

260412, Epic Thursday – Overload!

Had a fantastic day, which started with a choice I had to make when Mama Miriam came by (while me and Thobile were having school).   She asked for me to take her and some other ladies to the chief’s house and bring them back later so that they can pick up the vegetable plants that the government is delivering to the people.  (A new thing they're doing, they also gave out wheelbarrows, spades and rain-tanks some days earlier).   So, I guess whoever made it there could get plants.   My first instinct was to say no, I’ve got to teach, but then I reckoned, hey, this sounds important, it won’t be the end of the world if we moved our class.  So I said, right, 'masihambeni' (Let’s go).

We were supposed to be back an hour later, at 11, but I  only got home at 5:30 after a pretty awesome day.  We got there and heard the news that the delivery people were only just leaving from Umtata, so we had to prepare ourselves for at least a 2 hour wait, probably way more.  All I had on me was my camera and about R9. 

There were already a lot of people there  when we arrived.  Mostly mamas and a few men on the side.  They don’t really mingle.  Men keep to their own side.  Anyway I felt like I was sitting in a field of beautiful flowers, cause all the mamas were dressed so beautifully in their bright outfits.  I soon started taking pictures of the mamas, whoever wanted, and we had a jolly old time, I was loving it, joking with them, telling them 'Musa ukuhleka!' (Don’t laugh)  because they always have these serious faces on for pictures, when meanwhile they have these beautiful smiles and a lot of them have gapped teeth, very becoming really.

There were also this optometrist couple from Mercy Ships, said they were from Cape Town, but they sounded European, nice people, they’ll be back in September, God willing.  It’s a great service they are able to bring to the people, there are many people with eye troubles here, conditions that can easily be remedied with some help. 

Later we walked to a shop nearby and although we had very little money between us, I got 2 slices of white bread and a slice of polony, which I thoroughly enjoyed, washed down with some cola twizza, a 2 litre bottle that we shared by taking turns with a couple of small plastic empty cool-drink bottles.  We sat there for a while as some hungry dogs scurried around for a morsel of anything, licking out old empty plastic pockets that used to contain a handful of nik-naks type chips (hand wrapped) or empty bread packets. 

Hungry dog

 To the clinic

A bit later mama Gloria and I walked back, because she wasn’t feeling well, she hasn’t really for months now, but I think today she felt particularly ill, as she was almost clutching her stomach and trying to be brave and not complain, but I could see she was struggling, so eventually I said let’s go to the clinic and she hesitated cause she was worried about how much the petrol was going to cost, but I told her no problem (I don’t know how to say don’t worry about it’ in Xhosa.  She was also worried about the ’ikadi’ she needed before you can get treated.  (ikadi- just a notebook with your name and address and I guess information about previous treatment, if you had any)  Anyway, we went to the closest clinic which was closed and decided to go to Ngcwanguba which is a bit further but not too much, if you have a car.  There I let Gloria wait in the queue, while I quickly went to the shop to get a book for R2.  If this mama was on her own without a car her life would’ve been so much more difficult at this point in time.

There we waited, not too long, she was on the short list to get her blood tested, it was also about 3:30 and I had to cancel my Umdumbi outing with Thobile.  Then we had to wait for the pills from the pharmacy which took quite a while, but we were patient and got someone to fill my water bottle, because I saw the mama was quite thirsty and I reckoned part of her problem might have been lack of water – it’s hard to know when you don’t speak the language and for the people also, medically they’re mostly in the dark, no one explains to them what is happening with them, they have no idea if it is a serious thing or not.  And if it is you almost want to hide it from them, to keep them from stressing.  I don’t know, that’s just the way it seems. 

The people were super friendly and someone thanked me and said they love me cause I try to speak Xhosa.  That felt good and will inspire me to learn even more.  Actually the whole day was awesome, because all the mamas could only speak Xhosa, there wasn’t one today, well, maybe like one in the hordes somewhere who could speak English.  Only Roy was there who could speak English, so sometimes I would go over to him and ask what the people said.  Wow, I didn’t realize how rare English really is amongst the mamas.  In fact the only mamas I know who can speak English are Lucy, Busi, Mphetane and other people working at the backpackers or hotels.  Crazy!  English speaking Xhosa people are so valuable here.

I became aware of not feeling like it’s wise to drink from the water bottle, if you don’t know what makes someone sick, they don’t even know themselves, perhaps you shouldn’t share eating utensils, like cups or water bottles.  It’s difficult in a community sort of setup where you share everything.  Anyway, so I was really thirsty, but God kept me strong and in good spirits.  And eventually it looked like Gloria was feeling a bit better too. 

To pick up the vegetables

When we drove back to the chief’s house, I phoned Miriam and she told me the delivery was there.  When we arrived everyone had already gotten their vegetables (2 bags filled with soil and I think carrots, cabbage and onion or something like that.  Couldn’t really make out.  Anyway it was heavy. 

So I promised Roy earlier I’d give him and a friend a lift to the tar road, about 5 km.  From there they could catch a taxi.  So I took a load of people and their bags stuffed into the boot (I also have some boxes with books and stuff inside my car still).  It’s a pretty bad dust road to travel on, but I prefer it to potholes.  Anyway, many more people asked for lifts and I wish I could’ve helped them all, but alas. 

On the way back Gloria and her friend had already hit the road and I stopped because I told Gloria earlier we’d squash her into the car, she can’t walk home so far, being ill.  But she walked because I really only had space for one more person, but she had her friend and wasn’t going to let her walk alone.  That’s just ‘ubuntu’ living itself out here. 

Mama Gloria and her friend.  'Ubuntu'

So I went back to fetch the other mamas, last left at the house and got a huge cheer from them when I arrived.  Love them.  When we got back to Gloria and her friend, I just said, you’re getting in, both of you.  And the other mamas squashed up and no-one complained and my car still drove fine.  (I believe Jesus was carrying us) because all the way the mamas sang, Miriam (Nocountile) taking the lead, all in Xhosa and we danced and lifted our hands to Jesu and the car was flying over the road.  Everyone we passed on the road waved at us and all seemed happy, even the ones who still had to walk far.  A lot of them would only get home long after dark.   I pray the plants will grow abundantly and give them all the nutrients they need to be healthy and strong!!!

Happy at the end of the day...

240412, Just thinking...

Still just trying to come to terms with this crazy different world I’m living in.  All the things we take for granted, that other people never have in their life, possibly not even know about or can only dream about. 

I can have a luke-warm shower every morning in the cold and even though I wish the water was warm, I really can’t complain.  At least I don’t have to walk up a hill to fetch a pail of water and make a fire to cook it on if I want hot water. 

I’m kind of taken aback every time when someone comes to me and asks for something, like some of my clothes or my shoes.  I’m just like, no, sorry, I wear these shoes!  I don’t have money to buy myself new shoes every month!  And yet they don’t think it strange to expect me to give it to them. 

And when I visit their houses and see just how little they have, I can better understand why. When the people come to visit me, they think I am rich and can’t believe I stay here alone.  They reckon I have a very big house for one person.  I live in a caravan!!! 

This morning I had to try and explain the concept of ‘luxuries’ to one of my students.  Like, the things we have because we want it, not because we need it.  Most things we as Westerners have are luxuries, whereas these guys have nothing like it.  Sure, they might buy a packet of the cheapest chips on the market now and then, or a 20c sweet, but you’re never going to see them buy a chocolate or perhaps something like Milo, which I definitely crave when it gets cold over here.

Right now I’m thinking about all the stuff that I have, camera, djembe, pois, laptop, ipod, guitar.  Having all these things make me rich in the eyes of the people around me.  They see me with some of my things and reckon, hey this 'umlungu' (white person) has so many new things, she must be very rich.  But what they don’t realize is that all these things are actually pretty old and I got it years back, when I especially saved money for it, and now some of these things are outdated (yet still working) but still looks new (to the untrained eye).  While I bought it second hand maybe 5-10 years ago.  They don’t understand that I actually look after my things so that they still look new after many years.  That seems to be a foreign concept around here.  Anyway.  Just thinking. 

230412, Sangoma

One of many Sangomas around Coffee Bay.  

They are usually recognized by the red outfits, sometimes white.  

They use red clay to smear their bodies and faces to further the red complexion.

230412, Monday, general news update

One piece of good news is that last week I managed to secure a meeting with the councellor, whom I met at the orphanage opening a while back.  He was able to give me a paper that says that the piece of land was given to me by the community.  So, at least now I've got something!!  I have no idea how official the piece of paper is, it is not very clear.  For example, it just says that 'this land' was given to me.  It doesn't even give a clue as to where exactly the piece of land is, so that could be interesting.  Africa...

I'm currently waiting for sand, cement and poles to be delivered in the next couple of weeks, so we can start making progress with the rondavel again.

Johan, my tent neighbour, has helped me to temporarily fix my caravan roof, so that I can at least lift it up when it isn't raining. (Otherwise I have big leak problems).  I'm very grateful for being able to stand up straight in my caravan again!  Huge improvement.

Otherwise, me and Thobile have been working hard.  I'd say his reading and spelling has improved quite a bit in our first week.  It's been great so far!

As I'm slowly getting to know my new friends a bit better, I've discovered that my one friend is not actually from Bangladesh, but South Africa...  She is however married to a man from Pakistan.  Also Aquila the dog is not a Boxer, but indeed, a Boerboel.  I'm not sure if an English name exists for that sort of dog...

I had a really good weekend, as I was able to spend some good times with the people from Coffee Bay, especially at Willy's funeral after-party and  even  a spontaneous 'girls' night' that came about during the evening.  Just what I needed after starting to lose my mind a bit after too much isolation.  There are a few really awesome girls scattered around the area, reaching all the way to Bulungula, so it's really special when we all have a chance to get together.  Unfortunately one of the girls is already on her way back to the UK again today... But I reckon we'll meet again some day!  All the best Imogen, you're a star!

the girls

180412, Nobulele

Went for a walk on ‘my’ hill (where I’m building the rondavel) last week some time to see one of my neigbours, Nobulele.  She wanted me to take a picture of her. 

She lives in a tiny shack with her 3 children and her husband is apparently in prison.  When I look inside the shack I shudder a little, because the roof has so many holes, I imagine that when it rains, it must be like a shower inside.  There’s only one single bed, which I assume she shares with the 3 children.  Nobulele has a bit of a tough life I reckon.  She’s been trying to build a little mud house just a few metres up from the shack.  But that building is standing like an old ruin, not making any progress in a hurry.  I have an idea how difficult it is to get something built around here, especially without money or help from anyone else. 

I told her she can use the mud-bricks that were left over from my building, but those things are HEAVY, I know, I was carrying them around one day.  Just a few metres.  She has to carry them about 200 metres.  To find someone around here who has a bakkie and is willing to borrow it is not the easiest thing. She also needs a load of sand and cement to carry on building. (So do I).  ‘Kunzima’  (It’s difficult) is all she could say and I had to agree.  Really wish I had a bakkie.

Nobulele and her kids in front of their house

210412, Good bye Willy

Last week Saturday (14 April), a much loved Xhosa friend from Coffee Bay passed away.  Willy worked at Jah Drums and was my drumming teacher.  He was a special sort of teacher.  He had this wonderful ability to let me know what to do without even saying a word, just glancing in my direction at the right moment.  He taught me to be patient and listen to the others before I find my own rhythm. He’d been sick for a while and on Saturday he passed away in hospital.  He was only 42… He was a good man and I already miss him. 

The past Saturday (21st April) was his funeral, which I sadly couldn't attend because I had to teach.  I went to the funeral 'after-party' at Jah Drums though,  and I must say it was really an incredibly special night.  We had a huge drum circle and lots of friends came from near and far to celebrate knowing Willy and pay our respects.  May he rest in peace...

Some of the guys joining the Drum circle... Jah Drums.

160412, Day 1 with Thobile (a week later)

Have been having some troubles with my internet lately, might be that the spot where I am has a bad signal, anyway, haven't been able to post for a week...

So, me and Thobile finally started our long-awaited class today (That was last Monday).  Got the message to go ahead in the morning when I woke up and about half an hour later Thobile was here.  It went very well.  If we can make this much progress every day, he’s going to be reading like a superstar by the end of the year. 

Even the maths session went pretty well.  We also had to start with basics.  I’ve never taught maths before and wasn’t really anywhere close to the top in my class, so I’m just taking it as it comes.  We started with some simple additions and I improvised as we went along.  Thobile got real excited as he was starting to grasp what’s going on.  All in all, a great start.  

Tomorrow we’ll be expecting Ninti to join us. (Ninti joined us today, a week later for the first time.  He's starting again with the alphabet letters, which he doesn't quite have down yet, but he did good today, playing around with all the plastic alphabet letters and a alphabet 'puzzle' I got when I was in Cape Town... )

150412, New friends...

I've made a few new friends here at my new campsite, tonight I just want to mention 2 of them.

The one is a lady who also lives here, although you don't get to see her very often.  I spoke to her for the first time 2 days ago when I was on my way to the shower.  She's from Bangladesh and her husband is one of a group of guys who  run some shops somewhere around here.

 Anyway, I briefly spoke to her and she told me she's been here for a year.  I asked her if she knew the other campsite where I stayed before and she told me that because she is Muslim, her husband prefers for her to stay at home, so she has not seen any of her surroundings since she's been here.  I was impressed by how well she spoke English and she seemed very peaceful and friendly and I hope we'll bump into each other many more times to get to know each other.

I  have a new appreciation for being free and able to go anywhere I like whenever I like... And even having my own car to do so!

My second new friend is called Killer!  (Ha ha no not really, although her name sounds like it, it's actually Aquila)  She's a boxer.  No, not as in 'Million dollar baby' but as in a dog.  5 Months old. She belongs to some other people who live in the campsite, but are more often away than here.  So it seems she has adopted me.

We've had some difficulties in the beginning (which I hope are over now, but we'll see), she kept on biting my feet and hands when I'm walking outside.  She's started coming to my tent and lying outside and bit by bit crept closer till now she's made herself at home inside my tent, claiming a little corner for herself.  In the beginning I chased her out, some dogs around here have lots of fleas, but she looks rather clean.  Plus I felt too sorry for her.  She just wants some love.  And I've got some to give.  So maybe it'll turn out to be a good friendship.  She's sleeping in my tent as we speak, she got hit by a car yesterday when I wasn't here and apparently bolted straight for my tent and sneaked inside.

Well, she's a beautiful dog and I hope I can get myself to be calm and assertive and  be a good pack leader... (Thanks Cesar).  Perhaps a new challenge...

110412, Yesterday's Mawotsheni Orphanage opening

The pre-schoolers and their teacher

The mamas with some of the food prepared for everybody, thank you!!

Outside the new Community Centre building

Preparing the food

View of the garden and orphanage building

The pre-schoolers having breakfast

Enjoying the new climb-frame...

080412, Easter Sunday

Wil, checking in at the nursery

Kate, fixing up her tomato plant

The brand-new play frame for the kids, built by an Alaskan traveller/carpenter

Spent most of the past 2 days working in the garden at a project ( the new Mautshene orphanage being built just outside Coffee Bay) instigated by a Dutch guy, Wil.  Kate Fish is the UK girl in charge of the veggie garden which is just awesome and inspiring. (And Kate is also awesome and inspiring!)  I'm glad I could join  in just a little bit.  It's hard work I must tell you, but  I really look forward to having my own proper veggie garden some day.

060412, Easter Friday

I went to Umtata on Tuesday to renew my driver’s licence.  It turned into an episode of ‘the amazing race’, cause they sent me off to the Police Station for an affidavit ( after I checked if I'll need it and waited in the queue for 2 hours), because my old licence was stolen (I didn’t think I’d need it again, since I already used it the last time to get my temp licence and in the end they didn’t even look at it, but anyway).  Thankfully I got it all done.  And I got a rain jacket from Pep and new gumboots (My old gumboots had a leak - not helpful). 

The rest of the week has been fine, settling in and so on.  Got the kids to come and play on Wednesday. 

The tap water is in dire availability again.  I’m lucky if I can have a shower every second day.  And luckily got some washing done as well.  But that’s village life I guess.  It calls for other interesting ventures.  As you go and fill up your water bottles else where, you are likely to meet another person there who can give you some news about local business.  Yesterday I heard it confirmed again that the community is not very happy about the municipality that wants to take part of their land (the same area on which my half-built rondavel stands).  We have yet to see what is to come of that.  Meanwhile the chief  hasn’t made himself available for a meeting yet.

As I’m meeting more people and talking to people around here in this small town, (which seems to be a microcosm of the greater world out there) I’m finding a lot of people walking around with loads of guilt.  But we need to be reminded that Jesus set us free.  We are forgiven. That’s what this weekend is all about.  To be reminded and to celebrate what Jesus has done for us, settling our debts for us on the cross, conquering the grave and giving us free access to the power of God that rises us from death to life, setting us free.  Not by any good work we’ve ever done or could do, but by His grace.  The free gift God gave every one of us, because He loves us.  Give thanks to the Lord for He is good, His mercy endures forever! 

050412, Some pics from my 2nd Coffee Bay Wedding

300312, And then came the rain. Lots.

Well, well, well.  That moment of bliss didn’t last very long.  I’m glad I appreciated it while it was there. 

It continued raining all through the night and this morning at about 5am I woke up from a heavy downpour.  When I got up my tent floor was already wet on the one side, the water seeping in from puddles that formed on the outside.  A very unwelcome and by this time, too familiar sight. 

Well, it wasn’t long before the river broke it’s banks and came flooding down.  It rushed past and instead of stabilising, kept on rising until flooded the cement braai in front of my tent.  I was already packing things from my tent back into the caravan. Eventually, the water from the rover rose so high, it was inside my tent.  So I had water flooding me from a puddle on my left and from the river on my right.  I started worrying that it might rise even more and flood my whole caravan.

There was a point when I took my camera and laptop and some clothes and other valuables to my car for fear of losing everything.  One of those moments when you have little time to decide which material possessions are most important to you…  I was close to desperately finding help to take down the tent and moving the caravan.  Just then someone came and said that the river was going down again…  What a relief! 

In the meantime it continued raining and the guys had some troubles with the marquee tent of the wedding as well.  Water gathered on the roof and the whole thing was in danger of collapse with all the tables (already set the previous day) and everything inside.  Eventually they had to remove everything inside and take the tent down.  I thought there would be no wedding this day.  The bride and groom were both stuck on the wrong side of the flooded bridge.

But the brave groom walked over the mountain/hill in the rain to come and organise things on this side and later someone also brought the bride in a 4x4.  The wedding would continue.  I wasn’t really in the mood for taking pictures in the rain at this point.  All I wanted to do was crawl under a blanket and hide away till the sun came out. 

But I had to get to action.  I didn’t even have time for a shower and don’t ask me what I wore, I really hope no-one took a picture of me with my dirty hair and I was barefoot for most of the day, because one of my gumboots had a leak (can you believe it!)  and all my other shoes were wet. 

It was quite a crazy day and a crazy wedding.  The bride got dressed in a smallish room, there were about 15 people inside this room, bridesmaids and some just spectators.  I was worried the floor might cave in! 

But somehow everything worked out fine, lots of people squashed into a small space for the ceremony, some had to stand outside in the rain, watching through the windows, there just wasn’t enough space.  And at the reception a number of locals also pitched up uninvited and at some point I was even washing dishes as the plates ran out.  I was too exhausted to stay much later after that…

Today you can’t believe how high the river was yesterday. It’s as if it never happened.  I took my floor sheet outside to dry and carried everything outside again.  Now everything is back in it’s place and it was a beautiful Sunday.  Tonight I can sleep peacefully again. Happiness.  

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